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Winterizing your boat is the single most crucial maintenance responsibility that you will have to carry out as a boat owner. If it is done correctly, very little work will be required to get the boat ready for the water in the spring. Proper winterization principally extends the life of the boat and it is engine by protecting it is parts from freezing, corrosion and lying idle for long periods. The original step in the winterization procedure is to ascertain that the boat’s fuel tank is full – leave just a little room for elaboration – and add fuel stabilizer in accordance with the instructions on the product. If the fuel tank isn’t full you run the danger of condensation forming within the tank which may lead to corrosion and clogging. Turn off fuel valves and seal through-hull exhaust ports with duct tape. Replace the water separator and the fuel filter. Protecting Your Engine Run the engine for a while to warm it up and modify the oil while it’s warm. This allows a great deal of of the impurities in the oil to be drained away. Change the oil filters. If your engine uses coolant drain the current liquid from the engine block and manifolds and replace it with a propylene glycol based antifreeze. When a boat is not being used, oil have a tendancy to settle at the bottom of the engine block, exposing the pistons and valves to air, humidity and other corrosive materials. To stay clear from this circumstance remove the spark plugs and spray “fogging oil” inside the carburetor and into each cylinder. Replace the spark plugs without reconnecting the wires. Replace the engine’s old gear oil with fresh oil. Dispose of any employed oil at an authorized recycling center. Outboards Flush outboard engines with fresh water. Allow all water to drain from the engine and wash down the engine with soap and water. Disconnect the fuel hose and run the engine until it stops. It is necessary to see to it that all fuel is drained from the carburetor. Use fogging oil in the cylinders. Apply water immune grease to propeller shaft and threads, and lightly lubricate the exterior of the engine or polish with a quality wax. Change the gear oil in the lower unit. If your boat will be stored out of the water for the duration of the off season, disconnect the battery and store it at home. Boats left in the water will have to have the battery left in place on board and functioning so the bilge pump will proceed to function if required. If you are removing the battery from the boat, see to it it is to a complete degree charged before stowing it away. Recharge each 30-60 days or keep on a trickle charger for the duration of the storage amount of time and check the water level from time to time. It is likewise sensible to remove any priceless marine electronics from the boat for the winter, and to store this instrumentation in a safe place to stay clear from theft and possible harm caused by temperature changes and humidity. The winterization routine likewise offers an prospect to inspect items like lines, flotation devices, flares, fire extinguishers, etc., for wear and tear and possible replacement. Propeller This is likewise a good time to check your boat’s propeller and hub. Bent or nicked propeller blades will diminish performance. The hub may also be have sustained broad wear. If this type of harm is apparent, replace the propeller and make any necessary repairs for the duration of the winterizing process. Clean, Clean, Clean Clean the boat exhaustively inside and out. If you store your boat with dirt, scum, barnacles and the like on the exterior, these impurities will be even harder to remove in the spring. After the exterior of the boat has been cleaned, utilize a quality polish to the exterior surfaces to create a protective barrier versus dirt and dust. Clean the interior, including all timber, vinyl and carpet. To aid keep your boat free from mildew, you may wish to install a dehumidifier or use a moisture absorber. Turn any cushions up on edge so that air may circulate around them, or better yet, remove them from the boat. Drain and clean the bilges. (If your boat will be stored out of the water remove all drain plugs and put them in a place where they’ll be easy to find when relaunching your boat in the spring.) Spray the bilges with moisture displacing lubricant and add a little antifreeze. Empty The Head Pump out the keeping tank at an approved facility. While pumping, add fresh water to the bowl and flush assorted times. Use an approved cleaner for your type of system, and let the solution sit for a few minutes before adding more fresh water and pumping it out again. Add antifreeze and pump the coolant through the hoses, keeping tank, Y-valve, macerator and discharge hose. Check your owner’s manual to be sure that an alcohol based antifreeze won’t harm your system. Water Tanks Drain the fresh water tank and any hot water heater. Isolate the hot water heater by disconnecting the in and out lines and connecting them together. Pump non-toxic antifreeze through the scheme by turning on all the taps / shower until the antifreeze starts coming out. Add non-toxic antifreeze to the water heater. Put it on Blocks If you own a trailer boat, consider putting the boat and trailer up on blocks for winter to take the pressure off the tires. Inspect the trailer and tires for wear and tear. Grease the wheel bearings and replace if necessary. If at all possible, store your boat undercover. If you need to leave it outdoors you’ll require a boat cover. A good quality 8- to 10-ounce canvas boat cover must be adequate for most situation. Even undercover the boat will have to be covered to protect versus dust and dirt, pests and bird droppings. For uttermost conditions you could consider shrink-wrapping the boat. Do-it-yourself kits are available.
Most helpful customer reviews 77 of 81 people found the following review helpful. 60 of 63 people found the following review helpful. 44 of 45 people found the following review helpful. After reading tons of reviews — and going to the Intex website and other forums — I bought the Excursion 5 because some forums said the Seahawk II doesn’t have motor mount points (this is not true) and some people on here commented that the Excursion 5 is made out of the same “Super-Tough” material as the Seahawk II (this is also not true, but it’s very confusing and even the Intex website doesn’t make it clear. The Seahawk II is more rigid, can be inflated to higher pressure, and is more puncture-resistant because it is actually a 3-ply system including Super-Tough PVC OVER a nylon fabric layer) As soon as the Excursion 5 arrived, I realized I had bought the wrong boat for rowing my girlfriend and I around. The boat is too wide and oars too short to really reach into the water well, and the oar locks are fixed in place — not rotational like the Seahawk II. These two factors make the boat nearly impossible to row. I immediately ordered the Seahawk II and have taken it out and it is great to row around in (comfy for 2 people, I don’t see how you could fit 3.) I thought about what to do with the Excursion 5, and I’ve decided to keep it because it is a bigger boat and seems like it could be fun to take a larger group (up to 4) people out on it, once I get a motor and mount. So I want to set the record straight if you are debating between these boats like I was: |
This fishing raft got us through class IV rapids with no major problems.
Good size, comfortable, but rowing is horrible & questionable durability
